There’s Something About Ritten
From Bozen, the Rittnerstraße mountain road takes you up the Ritten Plateau. With its twists and turns, as you drive along the road, it feels like you’re hiking a switchback trail. You wind left and right past vibrant vineyards and orderly orchards. Every turn teases you with small glimpses of the Dolomites – until finally, the pale grey giants rise up before you. The iconic Schlern, the Rosengarten and the Latemar, among others, greet you from across the way. Welcome to Ritten!
Ritten, unwritten
Forget about the anonymity of city life here. When I first moved to Unterinn, a small village on the Ritten Plateau with a population of 1,500 (my high school in the US had more students!), I realised fairly quickly that there was something special about this place.
When my husband and I went to the grocery store, it would take us twice as long. Why? Because wherever we went, there was someone he knew.
“Hoila!”
“Hoi, hallo!”
We’d go for a walk, "Wia haut’s? How are you?”
Even when we’d go hiking, “Hoila! Griast enk! Hi guys!”
I often wondered if my husband was the mayor. (He wasn’t.) But how on earth did he know so many people? Once we were out of earshot, I’d get the scoop.
“That’s the baker; we used to play football together.”
“I went to elementary school with her. Her mom was in the choir with my mom.”
“Oh, him? He worked with my dad. He’s dating the girl whose mom was in the choir with my mom.”
It felt strange that everywhere we went, everyone knew everyone. Except me. I felt like a detective in a crime show: names, people and places plastered on the walls with red string connecting the dots. There were so many faces, so many names, so many impressions. How could I remember them all? The first year was tough. But as time went on, I started connecting the dots, understanding the dialect and talking more. Things got better. A lot better. And funnily enough, after living here for five years, sometimes I’m the one saying hi to people now, telling my husband, “Oh, that’s so-and-so, I met her at blah-blah-blah. Don’t you know her?”
Talk German to me
Among the 8,000 inhabitants of the Ritten Plateau, over 95% are native German speakers, 4.5% are native Italian speakers, and 0.25% are native Ladin speakers. The remaining fraction is a mix, but considering that I know another American and a Canadian here, we English speakers make up at least 0.000375%. United we stand!
Although I understand a lot of what’s going on when people speak dialect, I still don’t know when to use hell, sell and sem. I try. And I fail. But I won’t give up!
As far as my Italian is concerned, let’s just say: I’ve mastered talking with my hands and ordering. Una pizza Diavola per favore!
The wonders of Ritten
Ritten is a magical place. And one that sometimes smells like chocolate. Chocolate? Yes, chocolate! In my small village of Unterinn, the international chocolate and wafer company Loacker has its factory.
If you’re reading this in the US, you probably know the company by their famous Quadratini bite-size wafers. As a child, I remember asking my mom to get me these at Trader Joe’s. It was a good day when she said yes. Who would have thought the logo I admired as a kid (as I munched away on the wafers, crumbs flying) would be my neighbourhood view as an adult? SCORE!
Whether you want to walk to the 25,000-year-old Earth Pyramids formed by erosion or hike to the top of the Rittner Horn at 2,260m, the choice is yours! Ritten features 350 kilometres of well-maintained trails that have a magical way of heightening your senses. Observe the wind as it navigates the landscape, dancing across the grass, rustling in the trees and whistling in your ear. Fill your lungs with fresh mountain air as you enjoy the fleeting moment of the here and now.
Did you know that the Ritten Plateau boasts several Earth Pyramid sites? There are some in Unterinn, Klobenstein and Oberbozen. Take your pick, take a pic and relish these incredible formations!
'Tis the season(s)
One of the many reasons I hold Ritten so dear to my heart is the way life here harmonises with the rhythms of nature. Each season brings transformation, unique culinary delights and an array of outdoor activities. This idyllic haven allows you to discover a serene side of life – one that is genuine, grounded and true to its roots.
Spring fling
Spring is the season that breathes new life into the world, and here its arrival is particularly remarkable. As the snow melts away, the streams and waterfalls come alive with resounding vigour. The sun lingers longer, coaxing the trees to blossom, the birds to sing and the flowers to bloom. Spring on the Ritten Plateau offers an abundance of things to do and places to explore.
Summer lovin'
During the summer months, the tranquil Wolfsgrubenersee lake becomes a serene gathering spot after an active day. Take a refreshing dip or indulge in a well-deserved nap on the lush green lawn, allowing the warmth of the sun and the soft murmur of conversations to lull you into a peaceful slumber.
And your summer is incomplete without a hike from Pemmern to the Rittner Horn! The Rittner Horn (2,259m) is well known for its panoramic views. From the top, you can gaze upon the majestic Dolomites, the mighty Großglockner and the icy Ortler Group. If you want to save some time (and breath), you can take the cable car to Schwarzseespitze (2,070m). Should hunger strike before you reach the top, the Feltuner Hütte mountain hut offers a perfect opportunity to refuel with a hearty South Tyrolean meal along the way.
Fall in love
Fall blankets the Ritten Plateau in a breathtaking tapestry of amber red, burnt orange, bright yellow, green and brown. To truly appreciate nature’s masterpiece, take a leisurely walk through the woods, or better yet, journey to a Buschenschank farmhouse tavern and partake in the cherished South Tyrolean tradition of Törggelen. Taking place from October to mid-November, Törggelen typically combines a scenic stroll through the vibrant landscape with a convivial meal shared with loved ones. This tradition celebrates the young wine of the year and features local specialities such as bread dumplings, salt pork, ribs, various sausages, sauerkraut, roasted chestnuts and Krapfen (a filled, fried pastry).
Wild about winter
Come winter, the snow-covered landscape will keep you busy. The small Rittner Horn ski resort is rarely crowded and offers everything you need to satisfy your craving for snow-filled fun. Take the cable car to the top and enjoy the panorama, the fresh air and the vivid peaks of the Dolomites. From the mountain station, you can take a winter stroll along the panorama loop trail (Panoramarundweg), carve your way down the slopes on skis or glide through serene cross-country ski trails.
So, there you go – a glimpse into my world and the world of Ritten. Of course, there is so much more to discover... but I don’t want to spoil it for you. ;-)
Tschüss, pfiati, ciao, bye-bye!
Image credits:
Earth Pyramids: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ritten
